Door Details

Painting an entry door is usually a project in itself. Often the color and sheen are unique and can really create a statement for the exterior of the home.

Entry doors are often made of materials you don’t find anywhere else on the house exterior – perhaps fiberglass or steel. These surfaces require a thorough knowledge of primers for coverage, adhesion and longevity. Often the finish coat application is similar to automotive painting and requires a deft touch with the sprayer.

Windows in doors (called lights) can vary in configuration and construction techniques. Some door manufacturers will premask the lights. Some lights require experience with the glazing, which can spill over onto the surface to be painted. Think about the number of masked edges on a 15 light door. That’s 45 pieces of tape per single door side or 180 pieces on a double french doors inside and out. That’s a lot of masking!

Door sealing along all edges is essential, since it is exposed to higher humidity than most interior doors. Sealing the edges can prevent moisture penetration, which can prevent discoloration, delamination and warping.

Got an entry door that needs painting? Call the doctor.

Mister Sandman

A big part of preparation on a lot of paint projects is proper sanding. Sometimes sanding is required to flatten surfaces that have been repaired with fillers. At times sanding is required to remove sheen from existing finishes to improve adhesion. Often projects require a variety of sanding tools to with a variety of paper grits, depending on contours and amount of material to be removed. Knowing how to step up to higher grit counts is a big part of the skill set. When the dust settles, the project is ready for the primer coat and ultimately the finish coats result in a smooth finish.

Having a rough time? We can smooth things over. Call the doctor…

Change of Scenery

Sometimes, especially these times, a change of scenery can make a big difference in your mental well being. Let’s face it, we’ve faced these same old kitchen colors for a long time and it’s high time we put some tired color schemes behind us and step into a new experience. You might even gain a new enthusiasm for cooking. Ask the Paint Doctor about changing your culinary outlook.

All Angles

Applying a solid wood stain to a structure like this shade producing pergola requires a deft touch on a properly calibrated spray gun. Much of the material was pre-stained on saw horses before the structure was built. However, for looks and to protect the wood from the elements, literally every angle must be considered to complete the covering of the wood surfaces.

Pergolas, shade covers, corrals, fences, bandstands, kiosks, trellises and lattices require some serious skills. Call Mike at 541-497-3804. It’s a pro move.

Loaded Brush, Pro Move

Pro painters know how to properly load a brush for cutting in, for outside corners, open wall space and trim details. Not enough paint means you’ll over work it trying to get the coverage. Too much paint means you’ll lack control on your edges and eventually have a dripping mess on your hands.

Pro painters know how to load the brush and how to get consistent coverage and leveling by applying paint with the right speed and pressure. It’s a pro move. Your best pro move might be to call the Paint Doctor to avoid those unsightly brush marks.

Painting PPE

The Paint Doctor knows personal protective equipment (PPE) for jobsite safety. This knowledge starts with the chemical characteristics of the product being applied. We take all of the precautionary steps to mitigate against harmful vapors and the products which can be invasive through the skin.

It’s another good reason to call the pros!

Brushing Up on Paint Brushes

Professional painters use professional equipment. It may seem to some that a paint brush is just a stick with bristles. There is a lot more to these essential tools than first meets the eye. You will get your best results matching the brush to the paint and to the job at hand. Sherwin-Williams offers some great help with it comes to choosing the right brush for your project:

Sherwin-Williams paint brushes come in a variety of sizes, end types and bristles. A high-quality brush can mean a better-looking job with less effort. Why? Because a good-quality brush holds more paint and applies it more evenly, which can save you time and help you get the results you want.

Types of Brushes

  • Natural-bristle brushes made with animal hairs are used for applying oil base paints, varnishes, shellac, polyurethane and other oil base finishes. The natural “flagging” (splitting or fuzzy tips) of these brushes creates split ends in the bristles that hold more paint and help assure a smooth paint release and finish.
  • Blended nylon/polyester brushes are easy to clean and work well with all types of latex paints. The combination of nylon’s durability and polyester’s shape retention is the mark of a high-quality brush – one that also produces a high-quality paint finish. What’s more, these durable brushes are built to handle numerous projects. So, with proper care, nylon / polyester brushes should last for years.
  • Polyester brushes are best for latex paints. These brushes hold their shape and stiffness in any paint and apply paint smoothly and evenly.

Brush Sizes

Sherwin-Williams paintbrushes are available in widths from 1 to 4 inches. The size you select is up to you, but a good rule of thumb is:

  • 1″ to 2″ – window and other small trim
  • 3″ – glossy paints for doors and cabinets
  • 4″ – large, flat areas

Brush End Types

  • Chisel Trim Brush – slanted bristles produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
  • Square Trim Brush – the ends of the bristles are cut square and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
  • Angled Brush – bristles are cut to make it easier to apply paint to window trim.

Brush Styles

  • Thin Angle Sash – slanted bristles and a thin profile produce a good, straight line for trimming in corners and edges.
  • Angle Sash – features slanted bristles and holds more paint than its thin counterpart. Excellent for cutting in at the ceiling or painting trim.
  • Flat Sash – bristles are straight across and used primarily for applying paint over flat areas.
  • Trim – a flat brush excellent for painting large flat surfaces, especially exterior siding.
  • Wall – a thick flat brush that holds a larger amount of paint. Excellent for painting larger surface areas.


Surface Preparation

Proper paint preparation takes time, tools, materials and skills. The most efficient way to get it done right the first time is to call the doctor (541-497-3804) and have the crew do it for you.

According to Sherwin-Williams: Preparation. It’s the key to good-looking, long-lasting results. A properly prepared surface is clean, solid and dry, without cracks and imperfections.

Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.

Bare Wood

  • Easy-to-clean latex semi-gloss or gloss would be the best choice for the finished coat.
  • Fill nail holes, joints and cracks with patching paste.
  • Sand smooth and remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.
  • Prime all bare wood and patched areas with a primer.

New Plaster Walls

  • Latex is an excellent topcoat choice because it’s easy to work with.
  • These must be clean and completely cured.
  • Textured or swirl types and soft, porous or powdery plaster must be:

    – Treated with a solution of one pint household vinegar in one gallon of water.
    – Repeat the treatment until the surface is hard.
    – Rinse with plain water.
    – Let dry and apply primer.

New Drywall

  • Latex is your best choice here.
  • Panels must be securely nailed or glued in place.
  • All panel joints must be taped and filled before painting.
  • When joint cement and/or patching materials are thoroughly dry, sand smooth, wipe away dust, then prime.


  • Always remove wallpaper before painting. Use a chemical wallpaper remover or rent a steamer, if necessary.
  • Once the paper is removed, wash off old adhesive. Rinse with water and allow the wall to dry before priming.

Previously Painted Surfaces

  • Wash off dirt, grease, soap and oil buildup with the appropriate cleaner. Rinse thoroughly.
  • Remove loose paint and powdery substances.
  • Patch holes and cracks with spackling or patching compound. Allow to dry, then sand smooth.
  • For glossy or nonporous surfaces, lightly sand to a dull finish or use an abrasive cleanser.
  • Remove sanding dust or cleanser residue.
  • Make sure to prime all bare areas prior to applying topcoat. (Avoid “spot priming,” which can result in a non-uniform appearance between primed and non-primed areas.)

Masonry, Concrete, Cement, Block

  • All new surfaces must be cured according to the supplier’s recommendations- usually about 30 days.
  • Remove all form release and curing agents.
  • Rough surfaces can be filled to provide a smooth surface.
  • If painting cannot wait 30 days, allow the surface to cure 7 days and prime the surface with masonry primer.

A note from the Paint Doctor:

As you can see, proper paint preparation takes time, tools, materials and skills. The most efficient way to get it done right the first time is to call the doctor (541-497-3804) and have the crew do it for you.

Too Many Details

This is how the expression, “The devil is in the detail” got started. You think it’s a simple task until you get into it…

For many home owners, do-it-yourself interior paint projects can be a lot more work than they bargained for. A simple thought about painting a room may overlook a lot of details.

There are holes to spackle, spackle to sand, joints to caulk, caulk to cove, edges to mask, drop cloths to spread, ladders to set up, areas to prime, clothes to wear and many more items before you get to see your new color go on. And all of the above? Yep, every hole, every joint, every edge. The details go on and on.

This is how the expression, “The devil is in the detail” got started. You think it’s a simple task until you get into it, until you experience just how many details need attention. And, by the way, each of these details involve a skill set that affect the outcome of the job.

Give the Paint Doctor a call to avoid the devil that is in the details. 541-497-3804